Mi Favorito: The Authentic Taste of Mexico with a Modern Twist at Nixta
On the new COCINA editorial series MI FAVORITO, we ask high profile names to uplift a local Latin restaurant that holds great meaning to them. Shouting them out for nourishing and inspiring us. This week, Ale Graf of Piloncillo y Vainilla tells us about the restaurant that with its flavors takes her back to her childhood in Mexico.
Being Mexican, I know that the best food is everywhere, not only confined to fancy restaurants or trendy spots—it's found in the most unexpected places.
Growing up (yes, years ago), my siblings and I used to go with my mom to buy our groceries at the Mercado. Next to the grand entrance was this old lady sitting on the curb with a huge basket of freshly made tlacoyos. Tlacoyos are oval-shaped, thick, elongated masa cakes filled with ingredients such as refried beans, cheese, chicharrón (pork rinds), or fava beans. She warmed them up on a comal until they developed a crispy exterior while remaining soft and tender on the inside. She topped them with freshly made salsa. It was there where I had the best tlacoyos ever.
This is probably why Nixta, located in Austin, TX, has become one of my favorite restaurants. It captures the essence of those simple yet profoundly flavorful experiences. With its patio sitting and ordering up front, the restaurant mirrors this simplicity with a setting and vibe that lets the food take center stage. There's no pretension here, just a deep respect for the ingredients and the traditions they come from.
The food at Nixta brings the authentic flavors of Mexico to life
Their corn tortillas taste like authentic corn tortillas—just like the ones I ate as a kid back in Mexico. They aren't the overly processed, chemically laden versions in commercial Mexican restaurants. Every bite of their tortillas or totopos (corn chips) reminds me of home, of the care and tradition that go into making something as simple as a tortilla truly special. They make their own masa and tortillas using heirloom corn sourced directly from Mexico, ensuring that each bite is authentic and a tribute to the country's rich agricultural heritage.
And then there are the salsas. Each one is a revelation, with layers of flavor that unfold on your palate. You can taste the charred chile or tomatillo, the fresh cilantro or the toasted chile, and the time and love that went into crafting each one, just like the salsas I remember from my childhood.
It's this authenticity, this connection to the real Mexico, that makes Nixta not just a restaurant, but a place where memories are rekindled and new ones are made with every visit. Each bite takes me back to the flavors of my childhood, evoking a sense of nostalgia and longing for the real taste of Mexico.
Nixta beautifully treads a line between honoring deeply rooted traditions and embracing creative, unconventional twists. This dedication to traditional methods is balanced by a willingness to explore new culinary horizons, as seen in their inventive dishes that push the boundaries of what Mexican-American cuisine can be. It's this balance that keeps me coming back for more. I'm always excited to see what new twist they'll put on a classic dish.
Take, for example, their use of duck confit instead of carnitas—a bold move that you won't see in many taquerias approved by my mom and husband. This innovative approach is the brainchild of owners and partners Sara Mardanbigi and Chef Edgar Rico. Chef Rico, a James Beard Award winner and a TIME100 recipient, brings a wealth of knowledge and a deep respect for Mexican cuisine's history to the table.
What I truly admire about Nixta is that, for the owners, it's about more than just serving up delicious food; it's about storytelling through flavors, techniques, and ingredients passed down through generations. They also embrace the potential of new ideas, diets, and modern techniques, creating a dining experience that is both rooted in tradition and open to innovation.
At Nixta, you don't just taste the food—you taste the history, creativity, and passion that go into every dish. It's a place where the old meets the new, where tradition and innovation coexist in perfect harmony. And that makes it one of my favorite restaurants. Every meal feels like a journey back home, with a few delightful surprises along the way.